Sunday, July 20, 2008

Garota EM Ipanema ;)


Today was awesome. Ambar, Chantelle and I went to Ipanema to the beach and to the Hippie Fair. We took the bus (which I never did the first time I was in Rio). It was quite an experience for me since I hate buses no matter what country I'm in (I almost always try to avoid buses at all costs even in NYC, but lately I've been getting more used to them), but it wasn't too bad. A lot of sharp turns and speeding, but I made it out alive ;).
The beach was breathtaking and picturesque, just as I remembered it ;). It's just a really breathtaking view--any description I attempt to give won't do it any justice, so I'll keep it short and sweet: it's a long stretch of beach with white sand and clear, blue water surrounded by huge cocoa-colored mountains. Ahh, it's amazing. It's one of the scenes that you know could only have been created by God Himself :). We spent like 3 hours in the sun (it was a much hotter day today than yesterday, which was good for tanning ;) and I was considering even going into the water (and testing Gen and Augusto's waterproof camera! ;) but the tide was kind of rough. In fact, we weren't even sitting too close to the water (there was literally a hill of sand and some people between us and the water) but there was one monstrous wave that came up right over the hill. Some people grabbed all of their stuff in time (like us!). Others weren't so lucky and picked up their sopping wet beach towels and other belongings and shifted back, further away from the water. Since Ambar and I are spending our last few days in Rio at a hostel in Ipanema, I'll just go in another time. We took the tide jumping up at us as our cue to leave ;).
Afterwards, we went to eat at a restaurant called Paz e Amor (very filling lunch: rice, black beans, steak, and farofa; not very good at all--I won't be going back there--but Ambar had been wanting to go there and I didn't want to break her heart) and then headed to the Ipanema Hippie Fair (which they hold in Ipanema every Sunday) and walked around. I saw sooo many things I wanted to buy for myself and for people back home, but Ambar and I decided to restrain ourselves and wait til we get down to our last few days to splurge ;). Instead we just each bought a painting for ourselves (they had some AMAZING artwork at the fair; if only I could carry some of the bigger ones home and had more money...). They're so pretty. The colors and the details in both are mesmerizing. The vendor explained to us that each one represents a different dance done in different parts of Brasil. It was a bit pricey ($50 reais = $31 dollars), but I didn't mind supporting him because he was so nice and the paintings were so well made.
Tomorrow I start my project, so there'll be a lot more to report ;). Tchau!

Saturday, July 19, 2008

A Rua Barão de Guaratiba

Today was a pretty chill day. Didn't do much sightseeing or "touristy" stuff, but I did get my bearings more and got more acquainted with what will be my new "home" for the next 2 weeks ;). I woke up pretty late--like 11 (I'm blaming it on jetlag and the 20+ hrs. of traveling we did to get here from NY)--and after that just lazed around waiting for orientation to start (which I knew little to nothing about in the first place--like what time it started, where it was, etc.). Eventually, Chantelle, Russell, Ambar and I walked down to Felipe's house on the bottom of the hill (Chantelle and Russell arrived yesterday too; Russell's from Oregon and helping with the surfing school in Ipanema and Chantelle's from London and will be helping implement a theater program in the favela I'll be teaching English in).
Felipe's is the "mastermind," if you will, of the whole program here in Rio. From what I understand, he is the "in-country coordinator" and is the one who decides what project placements the volunteers who come to Rio will have. Today was the first time Ambar and I ever met him (when we walked down to his house for orientation). His house is pretty awesome. Like most of the places on Rua Barão de Guaratiba (which is the road our hostel is on), it doesn't look like much from the outside but once you step inside it's like a hidden treasure. Inside, he explained to us that he had just recently bought the house and was in the process of remodeling it for him and his family (his wife, who is French, and his two children are currently away visiting her family in France). We sat in a section of the house that could be called a "living room," but it was much cooler than that. What now served as a common space to welcome guests (complete with couches and a small coffee table), was once an open veranda and he was explaining to us how he hoped to finish closing some of it off with bamboo in the coming weeks. He even had a hamock hanging a little ways off from where the couches were situated! Now THAT'S what I call a living room ;)...
Felipe started off the orientation by basically recounting his life's story to us. He told us that at one time he was an aspiring actor and even lived in New York for a few years when he was younger (from what I can tell--since he said he was once asked to be in a Brasilian soap opera in 1986 when he was 22--he's about 43 now ;). He described how he fell into non-profit work in Rio (having been born and raised here) and explained to us how important and influential the work we will be doing here in Rio is going to be to the communities we'll be helping. He also told us some precautionary safety advice for traveling around the city on our own (mostly just to keep our eyes open and think before we do things) and the commonplace rules of staying in our hostels (respect and maintain them as if they were our own homes, etc.). We also found out what time we would be leaving for our specific projects/destinations come Monday and who will be in them with us (as I mentioned before, Chantelle and I are in the same program and we leaave for our program at 9; from what I understand, the favela we're going to is only a half hr. away! Whereas Ambar's is about an hour and a half...). I'm excited about starting work. Felipe said most volunteers work 3 or 4 days a week. I think I'll work 4 just to get the most out of the experience and so that I can actually feel like I'm having some kind of an impact ;). Felipe also warned us, though, that we'll have good days and bad days at our project and to just take things as they come. I know it's going to be hard for me not to be able to structure, plan and organize things down to a T, but I'm going to try my best so that they and I can get the most out of it possible.
After orientation Lia, Timmy (Lia's son), Ambar, Russell, Chantelle and I went to Lojas Americanas (think Brasil's version of Walmart ;)--which literally translates to: "American Stores"--down the road because Chantelle had to buy a bathing suit. On the way we chatted a bit and Lia divulged to Ambar and I that Dominicans indeed do the best hair (damn right! ;) in terms of blowdrying as she experienced in NYC. She asked if we knew how (and we regretfully admitted that we didn't) and said she could probably make a fortune here in Brasil by importing Dominicans from NY to do hair here. We agreed with her completely. It's so cool though to see women here sporting their naturally curly hair, whereas in most places Spanish women with curly hair feel compelled to get their hair blowdried bone straight (I must admit that at times I'm guilty of this at home, because I do like the sleek look of straight hair on me). So because recently I've come to embrace my naturally curly hair, it feels so liberating here in Rio to sport it and see other women who look just like me :).
For dinner a group of us went to a churrascaria in Copacabana called Monchique. The food was pretty good, but I got fuller quicker than I expected. We had some excellent cuts of beef and also there was a buffet table where I got some delicious rice with black beans (some of the best I've ever tasted, in spite of the fact that both of those foods are staples in my diet as a Dominican ;) and other local dishes. One of the waiters who brought around some of the cuts of meat was particularly chatty with me once I started speaking Portuguese to him (he was surprised at first, but then even asked if I was Brasilian! What a compliment! :). He asked how long I was here, if I liked Rio, etc. He even tried to explain (in between placing slices of meat on people's plates) some of the dynamics of Rio (i.e., how it can be dangerous, how there are rich sections and poor sections like the favelas, etc.) most of which I already knew but it was interesting to hear it from someone of the city itself. He explained how he works because he needs to make money and when I told him I was American, he said that it must not be hard to make money there. I disagreed though and told him that it was, and also explained that dynamics in the U.S. are different (especially where race is concerned) unlike here in Brasil. His response (if I can remember it correctly) was: "We don't have that problem here in Brasil. We're all friends. There's barely any issues of racism here." I agreed and said it was better that way. To explain how race relations here in Brasil are is difficult, but to be brief each person here regardless of color is regarded as quintessentially "Brasilian." Divisions here are more based on economic means and wealth than on race. No one asks where you're from expecting to get an answer of some distant country or where your parents, grandparents, etc. were born. They all share a common bond of being Brasilian and it's a truly beautiful thing. It's a shame not more countries in the world can be like that, but it's something so unique that I love about Brasil :).
Well, it's been a long day so I'll end here. More to come! Boa noite!

Friday, July 18, 2008

A Cidade Maravilhosa!


So I'm here! And it's as breathtaking as I remember it. I must say, my first day back (!) has been pretty good. A few glitches here and there, but overall good. The flight was long and tiresome but we finally rolled into Rio at 7:20am. There isn't much of a time difference (Rio's an hour behind) but I'm still a bit disoriented and out of it. For instance, right now it's only like 8:30 and it feels like way past 11. Maybe I should get some sleep, huh? lol.
The taxi driver who picked us up (he was hired by the program) was really personable. And I even felt brave enough to utter my first words of Portuguese! He was a bit taken aback that I addressed him at all in Portuguese (aside from the customary "oi" and "como vai"), but after that he went on and on talking to me in Portuguese and pointing out main attractions of Rio as we entered the heart of the city. Even though I missed a few words here and there, I must say I pretty proud of myself for taking that leap, and since then I've been a bit more at ease speaking to people here :).
The hostel, Baron Garden, is charming. I never quite understood what people meant when they said that, but I feel like this place is the epitome of it: there are walls tiled with what looks like Arab-style tiles, little nooks to sit in and relax, over 10 rooms, 2 bathrooms, and even a mini wall fountain in the computer room. There's a pool outside and the owner, Lia (she actually lived in NYC for 18 yrs. and just moved back to Rio; she makes documentaries and is taking over management of Baron Garden from her mom), is super nice. She speaks English and Portuguese. She lives here with her 12-yr.-old son and there are other women whom I think live here and clean. They seem to all share a certain respect for each other too, which is refreshing. There's no one being bossed around. If I were Leah I would say screw the hostel idea and I'd make this into a phat house for me and my family. I know she does this out of the goodness of her heart, though, and it shows.
Ambar and I are staying in a room with 4 bunkbeds and a total of 6 other girls. There's a bit of a revolving door system here, though, and although everyone is nice, you get a bit overwhelmed by everyone you meet, who's leaving because they finished the program, who's arriving, etc. We did happen to meet a girl from the UK by the name of Anouska who was really chill. Even though it was her last day, she was still nice enough to show us around Flamengo (the area of Rio we're staying in) and even took us to the beach! Although it's not as glamorous as Ipanema or Copacabana, it's still beautiful and breathtaking. I think we're going to make frequent trips there, especially since it's only a 10 minute walk from our hostel. We dozed for a while and took in some sun, which always picks up your mood no matter what ;). Afterwards, we stopped at a juice bar where she ordered an Acai smoothie (which she said she's become addicted to) and proceeded to lend Ambar and I money because we hadn't had a chance to exchange currency yet. It was sad to see her go when we got back, but at the same time it was a great beginning to our adventures here :).
Most of the other boarders here are from the UK (mostly London) and are staying for 4 weeks or more. That made me feel like my trip was a bit wack at first (one girl from Ireland is staying til September, then traveling throughout South America and even participating in an Amazonian volunteer program in Ecuador!! She said she won't be returning home til right before Christmas!), but later I realized that it doesn't matter how long (or short) of a time I spend in Brasil, because I know it'll be amazing no matter what ;). I also found out that none of them speak a lick of Portuguese, which really shocked me! When I told them I did, they were all really surprised. It was really encouraging though to know that I'd at least be able to communicate with the amazing people I meet here and get through to them. Even though my Portuguese is not perfect by any means, it's nice to know I'm working at it and at least people can understand me! :)
Afterwards, Ambar and I got a bit lost in the heart of town trying to find a specific location to exchange money, which Ambar claimed Lia had given her "directions" to (note: I will be navigating for us from now). I was a bit annoyed but we eventually found it, exchanged dollars for reais, had a snack at Pao de Queijo (yum!) and stopped by the supermarket to get some food to have at the hostel for us to eat (the program provides no meals whatsoever, which I think is ridiculous but am trying to accept out of absolute necessity). So that was the end of our first day. Ambar has proceeded to fall asleep in the overchair across from the computer, so I assume that means she's ready for bed ;). I think I'll take a shower myself. Tomorrow's orientation for our program, so we should meet even more interesting people and learn even more about what we'll be doing :). I'll be sure to let you know how it goes. Boa noite!

Wednesday, July 16, 2008

Até Logo!!


Sooooo, I'm leaving TODAY! :) But being the neurotic traveler that I am (as usual, lol), I've been triple-checking the 101 lists I made of things to bring making sure I didn't forget anything (even though I can almost guarantee that when I'm buckled into my seat on the plane, something will randomly come to mind that I forgot to stuff in my suitcase...just the laws of the universe in play, I suppose?). I'm mentally prepping myself for the flight to ATL, the 4 hr. layover, and then the 10 hr. flight from there to Rio. Not fun, but it'll all be worth it when I'm back in the Cidade Maravilhosa! (just as a warning I'll probably be writing with Brasilian words and phrases mixed in, so maybe you'll even be able to carry a conversation by the time you finish reading about my trip! lol ;). See you (at least virtually) in Rio!

Wednesday, July 9, 2008

Preparations, Preparations...

Leaving for Rio in almost exactly a week! Can't wait, but there's so much left to do...Will I be done in time?? It's really not an option, lol, so I guess I'll just have to pick up the pace ;). It'll all be worth it when I'm taking in some of that Carioca sun!