Monday, July 21, 2008

Julio Otoni


So today was our first day of work (!). It was such an experience that I don't even know where to start, so I guess I'll just start from the beginning...
So Priscilla (one of Felipe's "employees" I guess you could say), picked Chantelle and I up (on foot) at the hostel at about 9:10 this morning. She walked us down Rua Catete to the square (about a 15 min. walk from the hostel) where all three of us took a camioneta (which they call a "kombi"; I only call it a "camioneta" because that's what we call it in DR; for all of you who don't know, it's basically a VW bus that the driver squeezes as many passengers into as humanly possible even when there's no room for them--it's usually a cheaper alternative to a regular bus and most of the time goes places a regular bus wouldn't) to the Julio Otoni favela. It wasn't far at all (about a 20 min. ride) and when we got there, we walked to the Centro Comunitario which wasn't to far from the entrance of the favela. There we met Charles and met all the little kids that were in the center. They were so adorable. It sounds cheesy and I never thought this was a real, genuine emotion that people had, but I did want to take a number of them home with me. They literally look at you and you're done--they touch a part of your heart that no one's penetrated before. After dropping us off, Priscilla left and we stayed with Charles and the kids. We sat in a circle and they all introduced themselves in English ("My name is...") and Chantelle and I did the same. Then we helped them paint their t-shirts (they all got bright yellow t-shirts with "Julio Otoni" printed on them in black, and they got to make a design--on the "o" in "Otoni" only because there wasn't enough paint for more than that--like a sun, flower, or any other round object they could think of) and put them to dry.
I really thought this was a ridiculous thing that people just made up, but some of the kids actually randomly gave me hugs out of nowhere and even sat in my lap. They were so thirsty for my attention. It was both heartbreaking and beautiful at the same time. They have so much potential and so much drive. The sad reality is, though, that most of them will get swept away by the violence and destitution that pulse in every crevice of their communities. You want so much to give them all you have and be all that they can. The sad reality, though, is that it's just not possible. I loved being able to talk to them in Portuguese, though, and having them talk to me (in spite of how basic and trivial our conversations may have seemed, I still think it had some kind of effect).
At around 11ish, Charles took Chantelle and I up a hill to eat at a locally run "restaurant" called Cantina de Gaucho (I only put it in quotes because although you sit down and have food served to you, it's not like a restaurant the average person goes out to eat in; it's run by local people in the community, and although it's not as "glamorous" or run-of-the-mill with the usual amenities, you can find some of the best food you've ever had in these kinds of places). The view from the window was breathtaking (it's perched atop a hill, so it's literally a hilltop view of Rio and the adjacent favela, Prazeres). There, Charles talked more to us about his life (he's 39 and used to be a dancer and even lived in Paris at one time) and why he decided to come back to Rio and work with the local communities here (he actually works with more than one favela and he said he decided to try and help because he used to teach a dance class in a favela and saw that there was such a need for more help in all areas within the favelas). He seems like a really nice and genuine person who truly cares about what he does and the people he comes in contact with on a day-to-day basis. He definitely doesn't get paid for the work he does, so it truly is out of the goodness of his heart that he does it. At one point (I know this has nothing to do with what I was just talking about, but I have to mention it ;), he answered his cell phone and said, "Oi, Saulo!" I couldn't believe it! There are actually other people in this world with my brother's name! And right here in Rio! If that wasn't a personal shout-out and an incentive to come back over and over again, I don't know what is ;).
There was one part of lunch, though, that made me cringe. I know she only asked out of genuine curiosity, but at one point Chantelle asked if the favelas truly are like what she saw in "City of God." I literally cringed internally. I was so embarassed and sad that she asked that. I know that that is most people's first (and only) impression of Rio and Brasil in general, but it definitely isn't what it's like at all. Charles handled it with grace, though, and said that Cidade de Deus (the favela/community that the movie is based on) is actually quite far and that it's different than most. Let me clarify for all the skeptics and those who just have no idea what to think of Rio, the favelas, Brasil, etc: the favelas are not like what's depicted in City of God. Yes there's violence, yes there are shootings between local gangs and the polics, and raids and drug dealers (all of which exist in many other places in this world), but in spite all of that the people and tight-knit communities you encounter in the favelas are some of the nicest and most genuine you'll ever meet. Even the drug dealers (surprisingly), should you ever encounter one, (not that they're wearing signs around their necks that read "Hey! I'm a drug dealer!"; sometimes you can tell because they're carrying guns in plain view on their waistbands, etc.), know well enough that you're trying to do right by their communities and help the people who live there and will greet you warmly as you walk by (not that I advise you to stop and have a long chat or anything).
After lunch, Chantelle and I walked up the hill with Brian (a guy staying in our hostel) to Prazeres (another favela), where he works. We didn't stay long because we were just waiting around for Charles, but it was a lot like Julio Otoni. He eventually came and we walked back to Julio Otoni, where there was a fresh batch of kids (ranging in age from 6 to 14) waiting for us. We helped some more with painting t-shirts and got to know some more of the kids. It was a similar experience to the first time: we sat in a circle and introduced ourselves one by one in English. The kids had so much energy: running around every which way, playing tag and screaming at the top of their lungs. It was cute for a while, but you can only imagine how tired Charles must get and how exhausted he must be by the end of the day. Yet, he continues to do all of this with a smile on his face and an upbeat disposition.
I also met Ilhana (an older women whom I'm guessing helps Charles out and comes out of the kitchen every now and then; she and another girl named Carina helped prepare the kids' snack--which is probably the only thing most of them will eat for the day), who was so sweet. She asked me in Portugues, "Voce e brasileira?" ("Are you Brazilian?") and I was of course flattered but said no that I was from NY. Carina even also said how good my Portuguese was, which I doubted (especially because when talking to the kids they speak super fast and sometimes if you miss a beat, you completely cannot understand even the gist of what they're saying) but really encourages me to continue to practice and speak Portuguese to whatever new people I meet :).
Chantelle and I talked a lot particularly to Felipe (who's 14) and his two sisters, Gabriela (12) and Debora (6). Felipe spoke a bit of English and Gabriela and Debora were very sweet and talkative. It's just amazing how much most of the kids seemed to open up to us.
We left Julio Otoni at around 5, and took a kambi back to Rua Catete (the cross street that leads to our hostel on Rua de Guaratiba). Inside of the kambi, though, there was an awesome bumper sticker the driver had placed above the rearview mirror for passengers to read. I've decided to adopt it as my quote of the day: "Ta pressa, sai mas cedo." Which means, "If you're in a hurry, leave earlier." Ahh, I love this country :).
Tomorrow, Chantelle and I have to meet Charles in front of the school on the bottom of our hill at 8:30 to go to another favela (we're guessing another community he works for/with). I'm guessing perhaps this is where I'll be teaching English (Charles said they'd be adolescents but also said he might like me to participate in some other things aside from teaching, which I don't mind at all). I'm still not too clear on everything (how many days a week we're working, how many hours, etc.), but hopefully tomorrow will clarify some things. Anyways, that's it for now. E tempo de dormir! Boa noite!

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