Sunday, July 27, 2008

Maracanã!

So today started off slow, but got really good towards the end ;). Ambar and I left the hostel around 11 to go to a few museums and get some grub (namely, her feijoada completa that she's been wanting to try; I love Brasil, but I can't bring myself to try that ;(. We walked towards Lapa to the Museu de Arte Moderna in Parque do Flamengo (which is gorgeous, by the way--but then again, what isn't in Brasil? ;). I was a bit underwhelmed by the museum itself (modern art not being my thing, even at home), but I guess I'm glad we went cuz we at least got to see the park (did I mention it's gorgeous? ;).
Afterwards, we headed towards Lapa on the hunt for some feijoada for Ambar. We saw a few places that actually had it, but were a bit pricey (one for 23 reais, another for 46). So, we ended up just heading back to Bar do Altado, since the owner had told us yesterday they'd definitely have it today. She ordered it and said she really enjoyed it (I give her a lot of credit, cuz there are some things I just won't eat and that's one of them). I, on the other hand, ordered "carne assada" which I assumed was just grilled beef without any sauce (I'm weird, because I enjoy very dry food except, like, sauce from roasted chicken and steak with onions), but it definitely wasn't. Instead, I was served stewed beef (which I really hate, just ask my mom ;). I was really annoyed, especially because the Brasilians have a name for meat served that way and it's called "esopada" (you can order chicken or beef esopada), which I definitely did not order. This is the second time that's happened to me. Next time (as annoying as it might be), I'll specifically ask how the meat is prepared in order to get my point across. I was even contemplating eating it because I felt bad, but then I saw a huge roach on the wall behind the stove and I lost my appetite altogether (roaches and I definitely are not friends, but we can coexist I suppose if we absolutely must as long as I never ever see them). It sucked.
After lunch we headed to Museu da República/Palácio do Catete, which is literally around the corner from our street. It was AMAZING and they had some excellent exhibits (aside from touring the elaborately adorned rooms once occupied by Brasil's royal families, they had an exhibition on the 3rd floor dedicated to revolutions around the world--including the Black Panther Movement, the liberation movement in Cuba under Fidel Castro and che Guevara, etc.--and a specific section dedicated to the liberation movement in Brasil against the military dictatorship). They even have preserved the room that president Getúlio Vargas committed suicide in (we didn't get to see it, though, because we had to meet the group and Felipe to go to the futebol game). There's so much I didn't get to see that I'd really like to, so I think I might just go back later in the week and pay the 5 reais to get in (it's only free on Wednesdays and Sundays).
We met up for the match at 4 and headed to the stadium. There's so much to say and remember, that I hope I remember it all! So, ok we took the train to Estacio RioCidadeNova and then switched to another line to get to Maracanã. The view of the stadium getting off the train was unreal. It was so awesome and the vibe was completely electric. As some background info, the state of Rio de Janeiro has 5 teams or "clubs," as they call them. Today, the match was between 2 of those teams: Botafogo and Flamengo (which happen to be 2 different districts in Rio). As a group, we were rooting for Botafogo becuase that's one of Felipe's "rules" (Rule 1: Felipe is always right, Rule 2: If you ever think Felipe is wrong, remember rule #1, and Rule 3: You must cheer for Botafogo!; his exact words ;). Otherwise, we wouldn't have been allowed to go to the game with him and since none of us are from Rio and are die-hard fans of any team in particular, Botafogo it was ;). As a side note, I'll be referring to "soccer" as "futebol," since that's how the rest of the world refers to it (aside from the U.S., of course, since we have to be "special" with everything :(. So as soon as we set foot out of the train station (and even as people were getting out of the train cars), the cheering started. These are some fans for life. No wonder people refer ot futebol in Brasil as a way of life. We got to the stadium at about 5, and the match didn't start til 6:10, so we chilled outside for a bit and took pictures :). I took lots and lots. I even got to take one with Botafogo's mascot! :)
There were people on the street leading to the stadium selling all sorts of Botafogo memorabilia, like jersies, flags, hats, etc. And the fans were unreal, chanting, singing, and waving some of the hugest flags (oh, each team has its own flag too) I've ever seen up close. At one point, though, one of the police officers (they were all on horseback) took away one of the fan's giant flags for some reason and everyone started booing. Thank God it didn't turn into something more serious. At about half past (5), we headed inside to our seats. I've never been to a professional futebol match before so it was super exciting for me. I absolutely love futebol (even from my days of playing on a team as a little kid :), and it pains me that the U.S. is so against the game. Anyways, the game started shortly after and that's when the singing, chanting and jumping up and down really picked up and never stopped (it even went through half-time and after the match ended). These were some of the most loyal fans I had ever seen. Even football (American football) games in the U.S. don't have fans who sing or cheer the entire game. They showed quite a bit of love, to say the least. It was funny because although there were unanimous and loud "oh"s when Botafogo missed attempted goals, they would still cheer immediately afterward and also when the Botafogo goalie intercepted shots from the opposing team. I expected a little more in terms of the playing style of the players (there weren't any particular "amazing" shots or extremely fancy footwork, surprisingly), but they were still good. Although, I was quite annoyed that neither team seemed to be playing as a unit and some (or should I say most) of the shots taken were outrageous and seemed to not be aimed at anywhere even close to the goal.
I had forgotten, though, how comical futebol players are in terms of exaggerating stumbles and falls. I swear, they must all take drama and acrobatic classes! At one point, one of the Botafogo players rolled three times and laid for about 30 seconds sprawled out on the field. I suppose it's to invoke "sympathy" and outrage (in terms of the Botafogo fans cursing the other team's players for "tripping" him) from his fans. It was hilarious :). Sadly, though, the game was a draw (0-0) so both sets of fans, I guess you could say, went home disappointed. I'm so glad I went though :).
In terms of the food, I really expected much much more. There were vendors walking around selling soft drinks and chips (and at one point ice cream, which I eagerly bought), but not much else. You could go to stands inside the stadium itself and buy hot dogs (although, I'm not really sure why they call them "hot"; Anthonette got one and said it was the "first cold hot dog" she had ever eaten--so I'm guessing it's served cold on purpose for some odd reason) and sodas but that's about it. It sucks that I was so hungry, cuz the only things I ate I were some chips, an ice cream bar and a few sips of Ambar's Guarana.
All in all, the game was awesome. I'm so glad I got to experience Maracanã and a futebol match! :) If you ever come to Rio (which you all definitely should!), I highly recommend it. It's like nothing I've ever experienced.
Well, tomorrow's back to teaching and to the kids at Falete. I'm off to rest up now. Ate logo!

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